The Renaissance of Forgotten Grape Varieties

In recent years, the wine world has witnessed a burgeoning interest in the revival of forgotten grape varieties. This resurgence reflects a broader movement towards biodiversity in viticulture, recognizing the value of diversity in our vineyards and wine glasses. These lesser-known, often indigenous grapes offer a unique palette of flavors, enriching the tapestry of wine with their distinctive profiles and storied pasts.

For decades, the global wine market has been dominated by a handful of international grape varieties. Cultivars like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay have become household names, overshadowing countless other grapes once integral to local wine traditions. The preference for these popular varieties, driven by market demand and perceived quality, led to a gradual neglect of indigenous and rare grapes, many of which were on the brink of extinction.

Rediscovering Forgotten Grapes: A Collective Effort

The journey back to these forgotten grapes has been paved by the tireless efforts of winemakers, researchers, and viticulturists. This collaborative endeavor involves identifying, cataloging, and nurturing these varieties, often requiring detective work to trace their origins and characteristics. This renaissance is not merely about novelty; it’s a quest to preserve the rich genetic and cultural heritage of wine.

Examples of Revived Grape Varieties: From Obscurity to Spotlight

The narrative of the wine world is rich with stories of grape varieties that have journeyed from the brink of obscurity back into the spotlight, championed by a dedicated community of winemakers and viticulturists passionate about preserving and celebrating their unique vinous heritage. The revival of these grapes is not merely a trend but a testament to the enduring legacy and adaptability of traditional winemaking practices in the face of globalization and homogenization.

1. Godello: Spain’s Hidden Gem

The Godello grape, native to the northwest regions of Spain, particularly Galicia, offers a compelling example of a grape variety’s journey from near extinction to revival. In the 1970s, Godello vines were scarce, overshadowed by the push for more internationally recognized varieties. However, through the efforts of local winemakers committed to reviving indigenous grapes, Godello has experienced a remarkable resurgence. Today, Godello wines are celebrated for their complexity and versatility, offering a range of expressions from crisp and mineral-driven to rich and full-bodied. These wines are a testament to the potential of lesser-known varieties to produce world-class wines that speak of their place.

2. Touriga Nacional: Portugal’s Flagship Varietal

Portugal’s Touriga Nacional is another success story of grape variety revival. Known as one of the principal grapes used in the production of Port, Touriga Nacional also produces exceptional dry red wines that are gaining international acclaim. Its deep roots in Portuguese winemaking traditions have not spared it from neglect in the past, but a renewed interest in indigenous varieties has brought Touriga Nacional back to prominence. The grape’s ability to convey the terroir of Portugal’s diverse wine regions, from the Douro Valley to Dão and beyond, coupled with its intense floral aromas, dark fruit flavors, and structured tannins, make it a flagship varietal representing the rich tapestry of Portuguese wine.

3. Leading the Charge: Regions Reviving Their Heritage

The revival of Godello and Touriga Nacional underscores a broader movement among wine regions to reclaim and promote their indigenous and rare grape varieties. This effort is not isolated to Spain and Portugal; across the globe, from Italy’s rediscovery of ancient varieties like Nero d’Avola and Aglianico to South Africa’s focus on Chenin Blanc and Cinsault, regions are turning to their viticultural heritage as a source of pride and differentiation in a crowded market. These initiatives are often supported by local governments, research institutions, and wine associations, reflecting a collective commitment to preserving the diversity and richness of the world’s wine heritage.

The stories of these revived grape varieties offer inspiration and hope for other neglected grapes still awaiting their turn in the limelight. Each bottle of wine produced from these varieties is a sip of history, a celebration of diversity, and a step towards a more sustainable and vibrant wine future. As the interest in these and other forgotten grapes continues to grow, so too does the promise of discovering new flavors, stories, and traditions in the ever-expanding world of wine.